- Confirm
it if any callan is pending or not, like callan of breaking
red light, for non-checking of pollution etc.
- Checking of documents:
Check the cars registration book and the taxation papers.
The registration book will show the date / place of registration
and history of ownership. You need to be more cautious
if the registration book is a duplicate copy issued by
the RTO. You can get a RTO verification by paying a small
fee to an independent RTO agent, all you need is the photocopy
of the registration and taxation book. If the car is registered
in another state or if the road tax or insurance has not
been paid make sure you deduct the appropriate amount
from the price.
- Take a long
Test Drive:
It is wise to make the test drive last longer than 15
minutes, so that the car is thoroughly heated up. In fact,
stretch out the test drive for as long as possible. The
car should start easily and without excessive noise. Once
the car has warmed up, listen for engine noise as you
drive; unusual sounds may be signs of major trouble. Watch
for unusual vibrations or odors.
- Mechanical
Inspection :
NEVER buy a used vehicle without having an independent
mechanic inspect it first.
Take help of the mechanic you or your friend can trust.
If you’re shopping at a dealership, do not have
the dealership’s service department conduct this
inspection; they’re not exactly an unbiased third
party. Tell the independent mechanic that you are considering
purchasing the vehicle, and have them check everything
out and jot down on paper any problems they may find.
If anything suspicious turns up, ask for a repair estimate.
If the problem sounds too complex or too expensive to
deal with, don’t buy the car. If the problem is
relatively minor but will still require attention, take
the printed statement to the seller and use it as a bargaining
chip for a better price.
- Inspecting
a Used Car:
BODY - look for rust, particularly at
the bottoms of fenders, around lights and bumpers, on
splash panels, under doors, in the wheel wells, and under
trunk carpeting. Small "blisters" may indicate
future rust sites. Check for paint that does not quite
match, gritty surfaces, and paint overspray on chrome-all
possible signs of a new paint job, masking body problems.
Look for cracks, dents, and loose bumpers-warning signs
of a past accident.
TIRES - Uneven wear on the front tires
usually indicates either bad alignment, or front suspension
damage. Do not forget to check the condition of the spare
tire.
DOORS, WINDOWS, TRUNK LID - Look for
a close fit and ease of opening and closing. A door that
fits unevenly may indicate that the car was involved in
a collision.
WINDOW GLASS AND LIGHTS - Look for hairline
cracks and tiny holes.
TAILPIPE - Black, gummy soot in the tailpipe
may mean worn rings, or bad valves, and expensive repairs.
SHOCK ABSORBERS - Lean hard on a corner
of the car and release; if the car keeps rocking up and
down, the shocks may need replacing.
FLUIDS - Oil that is a whitish color,
or has white bubbles, can be a sign of major mechanical
problems. Check the radiator fluid; it should not look
rusty. With the engine idling, check the transmission
fluid; it should not smell rancid, or look dark brown.
Check for leaks and stains under the car, on the underside
of the engine, and around hoses and valve covers.
LIGHTS AND MECHANICAL PARTS - Make sure
all headlights, taillights, brake lights, backup lights,
and direction signals work properly. Test the radio, heater,
air conditioner, and windshield wipers.
INTERIOR - Check the upholstery for major
wear and tear; do not forget to look under floor mats
and seat covers. Check the steering wheel; unlocked, with
the engine off, it should have no more than two inches
of "play."
A car with low mileage, but with a lot
of wear on the driver's seat or the brake and accelerator,
may indicate tampering with the odometer. A musty smell
inside the vehicle could mean that the car was damaged
in a flood, or that rain leaks inside the car.
Emission - Emission
norms are getting tighter and that's good for you....
Emissions tests may also warn you of impending costs.
If a car catalytic convertor is emitting borderline
levels of hydrocarbons, the catalytic converter may
soon need to be replaced. But by then, installing a
new catalytic converter is probably only one small part
of the solution: high emissions could be due to cracked
or worn valve seals, malfunctioning fuel injectors,
a bad oxygen sensor, clogged fuel filter, improper timing,
or an indication that the previous owner simply did
not take good care of the car by performing regular
oil changes. In the worst case, the engine might need
to be completely overhauled. In any case, you don’t
want to buy a used car that will spend all of its time
in the shop costing more money. If it can’t pass
the emissions test, the car cannot be licensed, and
you cannot use it for transportation. If the dealership
sold the car "as is," the repair work is your
own responsibility. Make the emissions test a must.
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